More Power and Better Gas Mileage!

To create a more powerful explosion there are a couple of things you can do.

1. Increase the Cylinder "Charge" - Add more air/fuel to cylinder
2. Change the timing of ignition (in a diesel, this meaning changing when the fuel is "injected" in to the cylinder).

Increasing the "charge"

You can increase the "air" portion of the air/fuel charge by forcing more air in to the cylinder by a high flow intake/filter and by increasing the turbo boost.

Remember that it is best to start "power/engine" upgrades with an exhaust and then an intake before "chipping". It would be like asking an athlete to run a marathon breathing through a snorkel...you should take away breathing restrictions before you ask your engine to work harder.

The fuel portion of the charge is regulated by the fuel injection system...which is, of course, controlled by the ECU. To add more fuel, the ECU can increase the fuel pressure, lengthen the duration that the fuel injectors fire, and even WHEN the injectors fire.

Changing Timing and Ignition

"Chipped", "Chipping", etc. are popular terms that really mean that you have altered you factory ECU so it will increase boost and/or change the timing and duration that the fuel injectors squirt fuel into the cylinder.

There are a couple of "standard" methods that aftermarket companies utilize to "Chip" your vehicle. They are typically either a "Piggyback" ECU or a re-flash of the factory ECU.

These computer systems (whether a ?piggyback or Re-Flash) typically incorporate boost control, fuel controller, and add to the mix things like ignition/timing.

With more parameters than just boost pressure, a properly tuned engine management system have a greater impact on mid-range torque and throttle response with little or no effect on reliability. This is because they have greater control over how the engine performs as a whole and do not need to resort to dangerously high boost or fuel levels as the sole method to make more power.

"Piggyback" ECU's typically add functionality to the factory ECU. The benefit of "Piggyback" ECU's is that the factory ECU typically retains control over the vehicle's vitals. In other words, the factory ECU still reads and uses all factory engine sensors (such as O2) and performs as the factory intended. An example of a piggyback ECU is ?Edge? where a small box is mounted inside the engine compartment with a ?switch? run to the passenger compartment that allows you to change between programs.

In other words, a "Piggy-Back" system usually influences only the "performance" parameters (such as boost, fuel mixture, timing, etc.).

It does this by intercepting the factory ECU signal, sending preprogrammed performance parameters (i.e. boost, timing or fuel), and then "lying" to the factory ECU when sensor information is sent back (no?I am only running 11.7 psi?not 16 psi :^).

Reprogramming or re-flashing the factory ECU (like the Superchips programmer) simplifies things greatly. Most reprogrammers simply plug in to the OBDII port on your truck (typically below the steering column). Usually a great deal of time is invested on the ?dyno? by chip companies to fine tune all aspect of the engine to provide killer power AND reliability.

As you progress further down the power path (monster turbo, custom cams, new fuel systems, etc.) a custom ECU programming becomes necessary.

Increased Heat

With the increased power (boost, timing, ignition, a/f, ect.) comes more heat. Heat is the enemy when it comes to engine longevity. That is why it is important to install a set of gauges that include an EGT (pyrometer) and tranny temp.

Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) is a measure of the heat coming out of the combustion chamber. In simple terms, a more powerful explosion produces more heat. More power/torqe also creates more heat in the transmission.

With a 110 hp upgrade through an ECU reprogramming, expect your EGT to rise approx. 200-300 degrees (obviously, it will depend on many factors like load, outside air temp, altitude, etc.).

Exhaust and Intake 1st...Then "Chip"

The simplest solutions to elevated exhaust gas temperatures (pyrometer) is to cool the air before it enters the combustion chamber (via a cold air intake) and to allow the exhaust gas exit more quickly through a free flowing exhaust.

As a general rule of thumb, a cold air intake can reduce the EGT by up to 100 degrees. A 4" exhaust system will also cool the EGT by up to 200 degrees.